Citaat: I am a pretty experienced tig welder, having worked in the historic race car / restoration world for 22 years.
I am always reluctant to weld wheels or brake componants, my thinking being that if they are available new then the welded repair is just to support a cost cutting exercise. However many componants are rare and thus need to be reclaimed/ restored and in this instance welding can be the only solution.
The welding of the wheels in the pics above are of poor quality and should be carried out again by a competant welder.
The following points should be addressed:
1. Insufficient power at initial weld start (in spoke) - needs more pre heat, increase 'slope in'
2. Irregular bead width of the weld as it progresses up the spoke with sloppy undercut and poor fish tail finish.
3. Cratering at weld finish- this is caused by the welder not setting the 'slope out' function on his machine, basically the welder has finished too quickly leaving the a dimple in the centre of last bit of weld bead. The welder should back off the power gradually aiming to have a uniform weld bead from start to finish. he can do this by setting the slope out time to longer or if using a foot pedal, by not backing off so quickly.
4. In the bottom photo there still seems to be a bit of crack showing.
The rule according to 'lil John Buttera (google him) is that 'if it looks right, it is right'. These welds do not look right- they should be beautifully applied weld beads, to complement the quality of a Fuch, and then and only then should they be crack tested to be certain.
Jim | 
